Sunday, August 13, 2017


 Image result for cost of an in ground pool

Wideman Pools, LLC
2565 Hwy 67 So.
Festus, MO 63028
636-931-7665


What is the cost of an in-ground pool?
The cost of  an in-ground pool will vary based the size and type of pool,  the location where the pool will be installed and any additional features, addon's etc.
Some people say that the ‘type of pool” is the most important factor to consider when looking at the cost of an in-ground pool.  The type of pool (concrete, vinyl or fiberglass) is important for other factors such as what you like, your location, etc. But if you want to figure out how much does it cost to put in a pool, this is not necessarily the case.  Vinyl, fiberglass or concrete pools can be around the same price for similar pools.  You should choose pool type based on what you like and what is available as much as by price point.
Pool installation price can really impact the  cost of an in-ground pool.  You will need to have a site survey to determine how hard is it to dig in your backyard and the accessibility of your backyard.  Some of the items that can really impact price are 91) if the location is level (2) how rocky the dig will be (3) how accessible the area is for equipment and workers.  (4) How much labor costs in your area.
The other big factor in the cost of in ground pool is the style of pool, as you might imagine the larger the pool, the more features the more expensive.
When considering the cost of your in-ground pool the first thing that you want to think about is the pool size and shape.  Generally speaking the bigger the pool and the more exotic the shape the more expensive the pool. Simple, small shapes are generally the least expensive.  Also having a deep end will really not impact the price as much.
The other big factor is features.  Features can include add on spas. hot tubs, slides etc, as well as finishes like pebble tec, pool tiles etc.  Features can also include high end equipment like automatic pool covers, automatic pool cleaners and salt water filtration systems.


When you are getting an estimate for the cost of an in-ground pool make sure that you get at least 3 estimates and also ask for prices based on different combinations of size, shape and features.

Thanks,
The Wideman Pool Team

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Sunday, July 30, 2017

Step Into Swim

Who We Are
The Step Into Swim™ Campaign is a 10-year initiative to create 1 million more swimmers. Organized by non-profit, 501(C)(3) National Swimming Pool Foundation®, the campaign raises funds that are directly given to leading learn-to-swim organizations. The Foundation has matched dollar for dollar every donation given in 2012. Supporters of the campaign believe that investing in the next generation of swimmers – for fun, for fitness, for family safety – and teaching people of all ages and ethnicities, is a necessary investment and will improve the health and future of our nation.

Hold the control button and Click the link below for more information and a video explaining who “The Step Into Swim” is:

Wideman Pools
2565 Hwy 67 So.
Festus, MO  63028

636-931-POOL

Thanks,
The Wideman Pool Team

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Sunday, July 16, 2017



Wideman Pools, LLC

2567 Hwy 67
Festus, MO  63028
Widemanpools.com
636-931-7665


Image result for hayward salt generators




Choosing between salt or chlorine is a major pool decision and each has its own advantages and disadvantages. While the decision is ultimately based on your personal needs and preferences, we want to help you get to know the options better, so you can make the best decision for you.

Salt

Saltwater pools use dissolved salt to sanitize your pool and keep it fresh and clean. While you are using salt, instead of chlorine, the end result is the same as using chlorine directly, as both methods are producing hypochlorous acid which is what sanitizes your pool.

Advantages
  • You do not have to store and handle chlorine which can be dangerous
  • Less maintenance - You don’t have to interact with salt systems as often as chlorine systems
  • The water feels softer to some
  • Less trips to your local pool store
  • Lower ongoing costs
  • Safer on skin and hair
  • Lower levels of chlorine
  • Don’t fade clothing as much as chlorine
  • Salt does not evaporate from a pool the way chlorine does
Disadvantages
  • Higher up-front costs
  • Salt is corrosive and can damage metal ladders, screws on lights and trim and equipment (i.e. heat exchanger)*
  • Can damage salt-averse decking*
  • Chlorine is still present
  • Salt systems are more complicated
Chlorine

Chlorine pools use chlorine to keep your pool clean and are one of the most conventional types of pools.

Advantages
  • Clears up your water faster, in most cases
  • Easy to operate
  • Chlorine tablets are readily available at most pool stores
  • Lower up-front costs
  • Safer on pool accessories and salt-averse decking
  • Chlorine kills mildew, mold buildup and bacteria living in the water
 Disadvantages

  • Fades clothing
  • Can be harmful for your skin and eyes
  • Needs to be tested and replenished more regularly
  • Chemicals are dangerous if not stored and handled properly
  • Chlorine evaporates
  • Higher ongoing costs
Thank,
The Wideman Pool Team




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Sunday, July 2, 2017

Image result for dry stack stone wall

Wideman Pools, LLC
2567 Hwy 67 
Fesuts, MO  63028
widemanpools.com
636-931-7665



Dry-stack stone can be applied to just about any vertical surface. Most designers prefer to use it as an accent on a raised seat wall, fireplace, bar or waterfeature. I think it looks great throughout the yard.
You can offer several looks to your clients. One effect involves stacking stones that are 2 inches or less in thickness, but I personally prefer to mix it up more, using some stones that are as thick as 5 to 6 inches. You can also choose different varieties of stone to combine with the main species.
Dry-stack is very slow work, which makes it costly. Each setter tries to finish about 1 square foot an hour — less if they’re using mostly thin stone. Because of the considerable expense, most people limit its use.
A successful dry-stack craftsperson achieves three main goals:
Walk a line between natural and orderly.
You don’t want the project to look as uniform as brick, but it shouldn’t look random or thrown together either. The work has to fit in the confines of the wall. To maintain order, each piece of rock is made level and plumb.
Mix the rocks up.
A good blend of colors and textures should be the end result.
Keep the joints fairly short and tight.
Neither horizontal nor vertical joints should be too long because that can ruin the rustic look. Remember to keep the joints tight because you’re aiming for the illusion that there is no mortar holding the wall together. This increases shadowing along the surface.
Keeping these three principles in mind, use the following eight steps for setting dry-stack stone.
1) Select your rock at the stone yard.
Dry-stack works best with flagstone or other sedimentary rocks that break off in strata. This gives you a layered look. For waterfeatures, use harder varieties that can withstand chemically treated water. Just don’t forget that the harder the stone, the more time it will take to fabricate on site.
Choosing the best rocks is partly a science and partly an art. You want to make sure your selections have enough character and mix well with the rest of the stack.
Start by examining the edges. Because they have the most interesting color, texture and patterning, you’ll want to display this part of the stone on the face of the wall. Watch for pieces with different looks, so you can mix it up on the job.
Study the stone’s texture. Keep your eye out for interesting irregularities, which provide uniqueness and shadowing. Don’t go overboard, though. The stones will have to sit within the plumb line, so drastic bumps will require extra time for fabrication.
You’ll also want to observe the stone’s thickness, being sure to get enough variation. For example, you might think that Arizona flagstone would be ideal because it’s so consistent. In actuality, that type of stone has a bricklike uniformity you don’t want. Most of the stone should range from 1 to 3 inches thick, but we also combine small slivers with chunks that can get as large as 6 inches.
If you want to add more variety, mix in a different kind of stone to accent the wall in spots. Usually, I’ll stick with the same basic family, but choose a darker color or noticeably thicker pieces.
Finally, examine the whole rock to make sure the top and bottom surfaces aren’t wavy. The specimens can be bowed because they’ll be cut in strips 2 to 5 inches wide, so mild curves won’t show. But drastic waving will impact the strips. You want the thickness to be relatively consistent across the stone rather than tapered from one side to the other. That way, they’re easier to level as you set them.
Some quarries will palletize rock that is best for the dry-stack technique.
2) Establish your guidelines.
Dry-stack stone has a lot of character, but there should be a definite sense of order, too. This is accomplished by
establishing distinct boundaries. Set a story pole, a 2-by-4 at the top of the wall where you can pull plumb lines (2). Boards should go at the sides.
Decide how far you want the stones to protrude from the block wall or other structure. You’ll be working with pieces of varying depths, so it’s important to plan where to line up the front of each rock. Five inches is a good, workable setback because it gives you more latitude for dealing with wider stones.
If space is too tight, 5 inches may not be possible. In such instances, the project will take longer to finish. That’s because you may need to saw each piece individually to make it shallower. Many varieties of stone shatter if you try to snap them off into strips less than 4- to 5 inches.
3) Cut the rock into strips.
If you do this stage right, you’ll have plenty of color and texture to showcase on the wall. If not, you can waste the most interesting part of the rock.
When cutting a piece of flagstone (3), make maximum use of the edges. This is what you want to showcase on the front of the wall. To do this, cut around the perimeter of the stone so the edge surface is on the front of all of your strips. Then cut the interior pieces into strips. Those will be more consistent in color and texture, and make good filler. Remember, don’t merely cut the flagstone plank from one end to the other. If you do, the color and texture variation on two sides of the rock will be hidden.
Get a feel for how thinly the rock can be split. When working with harder varieties, you’ll need to produce wider strips — say, 4- to 5 inches. If you try to cut a rigid material too narrow, it will shatter.
4) Put down the mortar.
Mortar goes on the foundation before you place the first course of rock.
Start with a good mortar. Don’t use a sand that’s too coarse.
Instead, stick with a finer type, such as dry plaster sand. This provides better hold in the tight joints.
Put enough mortar to hold the stone down and also to backfill the void between the stone and structure (4). The mortar will be thinner in front, and considerably thicker in the back.
Sometimes you need almost wafer-thin or pie-shaped pieces to fit into a given space. Consider using thinset for these pieces because they’ll hold better.
5) Choose a piece that will fit — or make it fit.
While it doesn’t look like it, you are actually setting the stone in courses. Base your work around the larger stones: If you have a 6-inch-thick piece, for example, stack thinner ones on either side until they meet up with the larger specimen.
From the beginning, choose strips of differing lengths and thicknesses so it doesn’t look too refined (5A). With each fresh stone, select a new size, color and pattern. Don’t concentrate similar tones in the same area. Set thin rocks next to thick ones and long stones over short ones. That way, you won’t have continuous joints running vertically or horizontally. Avoid using too many stones longer than 1 foot.
In a perfect world, the ideal piece would fit precisely. However, this is not always the case. You might need to saw a strip so that it’s a little narrower from side to side or shallower from front to back. It helps to chip pieces a little in the front to add texture (5B).
Curves and rounded corners are a minor complication. You can use some smaller, wedge-shaped pieces to make rocks fit around bended areas (5C), but be sure to use some longer pieces as well, so the spot matches the rest of the work.
If you’re having trouble finding enough rock that naturally curves around the front, create a rounded area by chipping two corners off to break the straight line. This is well worth the time it takes because it makes the curve look like the rest of the job.
6) Finish setting the rock.
Tap the stone so it’s set firmly in the layer of mortar, leaving a joint only about 1/8-inch thick.
Use a level with each stone to make sure it’s even and plumb (6A).
Remove any evidence of mortar. First wipe any excess oozing, then, after a few stones are set, gently rinse the face (6B) to pull out any mortar in the front and recess the joint. Now you have shadowing where you would normally see a grout joint.
7) Wrap it up.
When doing this work, you always have to think a step ahead. This becomes even more important when nearing the top or ends of the wall. At this point, start anticipating how the final rocks will fit. They all have to end at the same spot, but you can’t break from the random-looking pattern as you get close to finishing. Start figuring out where a big piece and several smaller ones will work best. Otherwise, you may back yourself into a corner.
8) Seal it.
When the job is finished, use a penetrating sealer to make the stone more durable. This especially helps with softer stone. Apply at least two coats. More should be used if the rock will be exposed to chemically treated water.
THE BIG PICTURE
A dry-stack project won’t come together without considerable planning. Ask clients if they want thinner or thicker rock, or a combination. Decide if a particular tone should dominate and what color proportions are best — maybe 30-percent pinkish rock with yellower stone taking up the rest.
After selecting color combinations, explain it to your setters. Have one setter do a small sample to make sure everyone’s on the same page. Make the needed adjustments, then show it to the rest of the crew. During construction, have the setters step back and examine their work from a distance to make sure they’re maintaining the same look.
As mentioned in the story, sometimes I use a few pieces that are noticeably different from the rest. They might be significantly larger or from another variety of stone. It’s a good idea to randomly mark on the wall approximately where these specimens should go so they’re scattered how you want.
Each setter will have his or her own style. If you’re using multiple people on a job, don’t let them work in the same spot for too long. Instead, have them move after finishing a couple of square feet. That way, you won’t see an obvious difference from one part of the wall to another.


 Thanks,
The Wideman Pool Team



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Sunday, June 18, 2017



Wideman Pools, LLC
2567 Hwy 67
Festus, MO  63028
Widemanpools.com
636-931-7665

Image result for filling a pool with freshwater

What to look for in filling A Pool with Fresh Water



As another spring creeps up from the South, many pools across the nation will be adding water — filling or topping off. And whether a new pool is receiving its entire complement, or just a top-off to bring a winterized pool up to active service level, understanding source water is important.

For with a spring fill, the hidden ingredients in source water become part of a pool's chemistry just the same as if they'd been measured out and added from a big white bucket. Knowing what's going into the pool along with the water — and how to keep it from making trouble all summer — is a matter of sound, fundamental pool care.
Waterborne Suspects
Unless a pool is receiving pure H2O from a large distilling plant, there will be quite a few passengers riding along with it. The most troubling of these are minerals, nutrients, metals and perhaps bacteria. Each has an effect on pool chemistry and health.

Hard water: The somewhat misleading descriptor "hard" means that water has a high mineral content. The minerals that most concern the pool professional are calcium and magnesium. Concentrations of either one of these change the feel of pool water on the skin, and can precipitate out in the pool, clogging filters and causing cloudy water and poor circulation. Often they will show up on surfaces in a thin white layer well designed to make such surfaces look old and unattractive. If adhered to a piece of the pool equipment such as a heater element — the likeliest place to find it — calcium scale can interfere with its function.

Calcium drops out of solution onto heaters because, contrary to the general guidelines of the natural world, the warmer the water (and the water around the heater is very warm), the less soluble calcium is. Calcium is unusual that way — a freak, if you will. Most materials on earth dissolve more easily as water temperature goes up, but it takes all kinds.

Soft water: Soft, being the opposite of hard, indicates water that is low in minerals such as calcium and magnesium. All things seeking balance in the world, water bereft of calcium goes looking for it in the plaster, degrading its appearance in the process.

Naturally soft water comes from rain, rivers, lakes and snowmelt, and tends to have a low pH. Such acidic water is hungry for metal parts in the plumbing, which it eats and eventually leaves corroded and useless.

Artificially softened water has been put through a process familiar to many households, where calcium and magnesium ions are replaced by sodium ions in a large, in-line tank. The difference between natural and artificial soft water is that the latter has a neutral or alkaline pH and therefore does not tend to corrode surfaces. It also has a higher TDS level.

Nutrient-rich water: Organic compounds such as phosphates and nitrates can be present in source water from lakes and rivers, and these carbon-hydrogen chains are like hot dogs and hamburgers to the tiny creatures known as algae.

In the presence of sunlight, lolling in warm water, all types of algae will eat organic matter and reproduce rapidly, if they can find a place in the pool not well-sanitized. Whether black, green or mustard-colored, a large colony of reproducing algae is a huge turnoff for bathers.

Another more recent and growing problem caused by phosphates is their effect on salt chlorine generators. High levels of phosphates in the water have been found to coat the metal plates in such systems, preventing them from producing enough chlorine to sanitize the pool.

This situation, the combination of low chlorine levels with a veritable smorgasbord of phosphates, is an algae population explosion waiting to happen.

Metal-rich water: The metals most often cited for trouble in the pool are copper, iron and manganese, and all of these can be present in any water source, municipal or private. Like calcium and magnesium, these metals can suddenly fall out of a clear water solution, turning the water green or brown, or depositing stains on the pool shell.

Iron bacteria in source water: Although not detectable with consumer pool-testing products, iron bacteria can be present in water and cause a pool-sized headache. These tiny organisms combine dissolved iron or manganese with oxygen and use it to form brownish deposits. In the process, the bacteria produce a brown slime that builds up on pool or plumbing surfaces.

These are some of the most important water types and waterborne pool invaders. And while each pool's source water must be investigated individually, some generalizations can be made.
Look To The Source
In order to determine what's in a customer's water, journey back up the water main to find its history and origins. Different regions, different seasons, and of course, different delivery mechanisms influence its biological and chemical makeup.

Geography comes into play when determining whether water is likely too hard or soft. According to the U.S. Geological Survey, 89 percent of U.S. residential homes have water that is to some degree mineral-heavy or "hard" — some only slightly hard, and others like liquid, running rock.

Although broad generalizations are difficult, and exceptions are common, the American Southwest is distinguished by particularly hard water. Places such as Texas, New Mexico, Kansas, Arizona and southern California see some of the country's hardest waters, with some measured mineral concentrations greater than 1,000 mg/L.

Moderately hard waters are likely to be found in the rivers of the Great Lakes states and the Pacific Northwest, while softer water is likely to be found in parts of New England.

Particularly now, in the springtime, heavy rains and snowmelt can reduce hardness in a pool, as both these sources are low in minerals. For those living near industrialized areas, these same spring rains are likely to be acidic, and this can wreak havoc on the water balance of pools. A higher buffer of total alkalinity (TA) is necessary to keep pH in a proper range due to that influx of low-pH water. (Pool professionals addressing the question should also be aware of the contribution that a high level of cyanuric acid has upon the total alkalinity reading. See the sidebar on calculating TA.) 

Irrespective of physical location or season, individual municipalities may have an effect on source water, especially through the use of orthophosphate. Orthophosphate is a commonly used corrosion inhibitor that coats pipes and prevents lead from leaching into drinking water from aging water mains. Some of the cities that use orthophosphate include Washington D.C., New York City, Denver, and Detroit, among many others.

Where orthophosphate is used, high amounts of phosphate will be present in the fill water, providing a bounty for hungry algae to feed upon. A good dose of phosphate remover should be added to the water in this case; typical chemical formulations used in the pool industry for phosphate removal are lanthanum carbonate and lanthanum chloride.
Cheap Insurance
A few precautionary measures taken during a pool fill should provide insurance against the sort of pool problems discussed above.

First, know your source. Find out whether it has a history of producing problems. You can contact your local municipality to get information on water treatment systems. In addition, there are numerous resources online. One example is the USGS Web site, which provides well-organized information on water quality for individual cities and states.

Primarily, however, careful attention and experience in a particular area should inform a pool care professional's assessment of local water. What has been seen in the past? Of course, the best places to seek this kind of information are seasoned pool care pros with years of experience with a particular water source. 

Second, tie up what metals may be in the water with a metal sequestering agent. This provides insurance against any staining or metal precipitate problems that may be triggered either by the source water or by the addition of chemicals, which alter the pool's chemical balance in their own right and can cause staining. In plain language, do not dump in a large amount of chlorine before metals have been sequestered, as this is one of the most common causes of early-pool-season staining.

Third, use chlorine-free shock to break down excess organics and disassociate metal bound to bacteria so that it can be sequestered.

Fourth, make sure you balance the water immediately. Balanced water ensures greater protection against damage to equipment or surfaces, and the sooner this is done the better. In addition, sanitizers work better at killing bacteria when water is properly balanced.

Fifth, use a clarifier and give the pool a good filtering; make sure to start with a clean, properly functioning filter. After filling and shocking there will most likely be lots of small-diameter waste material in the water. This needs to be filtered out and removed quickly to clear the water and enable the sanitizer to function properly.

Finally, begin normal sanitizing process. Having followed a few easy guidelines to ensure a good, clear start to the pool season, a summer of manageable pool water is likely to follow.

[Information for this article was supplied by Terry Arko, technical products specialist, SeaKlear, Bothell, Wash.]
Calculating TA (with CYA)
When testing uncovers a cyanuric acid (CYA) level over 50 ppm, pool professionals should calculate a third of that reading and subtract it from the total alkalinity (TA) reading.
·       Example: TA = 90 ppm, CYA = 60 ppm
·       Divide the CYA reading by 3 to get 20 ppm.
·       Subtract 20 ppm from 90 ppm = 70 ppm.
Even in very hard water, 70 ppm is too low. It is important for pool professionals to be aware of and adjust for this, as when alkalinity is too low, corrosive damage to the equipment can occur.
 Thanks,
The Wideman Pool Team



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